(Amber)We boarded the small Copa airline in Jacksonville Florida and found our seats toward the back. Being two of the first to get on, we settled in and waited, watching as the remaining passengers filed in and found their places as well. It didn’t take long to realize that something had changed in the atmosphere around us, something was very different. It was complete cultural immersion of the Spanish influence and we were quite all of a sudden the minority. As standard passenger procedures and emergency instructions sounded from the speakers above our heads we noticed that the Spanish version came first and a compacted,
edited English version came second. All around us suddenly became very unfamiliar and at that disorienting moment in time it was evident that our journey had indeed begun. Our names are Nick Aguilar and Amber Wade, and we had been afforded the amazing opportunity to spend a month in Panama with Peace Corps volunteer, Michelle Aguilar.
(Nick) After much anticipation for our long awaited trip, the wheels of the jet finally touched down. As i gaze out the window my eye is drawn toward a rickety sign hung on a fence welcoming us to panama (Bienvenidos a Panama). First bags off the conveyor, first ones through customs, which was nothing more than a quick glance and a stamp to our Passports, we head out the doors to the awaiting crowd of bus and taxi drivers. After a few “No hablo’s” and “Yo no se’s” we find Michelle coming towards us with welcoming arms. Fatigued from our flights we head to the hustle and bustle of Panama City. It took no more than three days of the constant horn communication and roaring diablo rojos(public transportation), 
before we were more than ready for the slow and steady living of Buena Esperanza. It was a Sunday when we arrived which meant most of the village would be gathered watching the soccer game against the neighboring community. My initial impression of the people of B.E. is one I will surely never forget. We stood watching the game come to an end on a field half covered in thick mud. There were two soccer goals made of bamboo and boundary lines marked by the tall grass that had not been cut. I was surprised to see that none of the players were wearing shin guards. At a closer look they weren’t even wearing shoes. Something that seemed to be such a necessity when I used to play is something these guys went without. Just one of the many good fortunes that i used to and probably still do take for granted. Yet here these guys are happy as pie, running through the mud, doing their thing. Our afternoon was spent surrounded by children with joy filled eyes, carrying giant smiles and exceedingly curious hands. Much to my delight i soon found myself running barefoot through the ankle deep mud, the cool moist earth beneath my feet seeping through my toes and slowing my stride, as i play childhood games with the local boys. It was a joyful reminder that, unlike languages, there are no barriers with laughter.
(Amber) I was so eager to get to our temporary home during the boat ride from the neighboring town of Almirante. It kinda felt like we would never arrive, but as I knelt in the mud patched grass on the outer edge of Buena Esperanzas only recreational field watching Nicholas play with the younger village boys, I could no longer understand why I felt the need to be anywhere else. All the distracting aspects of life dropped out and away from my minds eye, simply melting, sliding far down into the very bottom of where my thoughts are held. Curious eyes were everywhere, mainly in the faces of the children, all cautiously timid and perhaps a little confused, following my every move while I remained kneeling to watch the interaction taking place with Nicholas out on the field. It warmed my heart to see how pleased they were with his interest and participation, as though an act such as this did not occur often, if at all. Out of the corner of my eye I caught movement, soon noticing that whatever it was advanced upon me. Turning my head and my attention, I caught a small girl towing behind her an even smaller little boy, both wearing nothing but undies and a wide toothy grin, still a bit cautious but apparently too interested to keep their distance any longer. Others of about the same age remained still where the two braver ones had just left, giggling to each other behind dirty hands. The grinning pair now stood before me with nervous dirty fingers in their mouths, eyes wide yet happy, searching my own for any kind of encouragement. We could not understand each others words, but the expressions, the movements, the common understanding of the language of our bodies connected us in a way that words never could. I motioned them to come closer, keeping my face positive, smiling reassuring, until together they crept slowly, and slower still until finally I held one of each of their hands in my own. Of all my journeys, of all my experiences in this life, there never has been, nor will there ever be anything quite like the companionship of a child.
We spent a month in B.E. Unfortunately we don’t have the time or the patience to write about our day to day experiences, so we will chose a few that stood out.
The World Map
(Nick) From the get go we were all very excited. Pencils, measuring tape, chalk box and modified yard stick in hand, we set out for our canvas. For the next few weeks it consumed us. Our morning kayak rides to the village began to blend. We quickly learned to call it a day before the shadow casted by the school disappeared beneath our feet, exposing us to the unrelenting sun. It came together in three main stages, gridding, drawing and painting. Forming the grid was by far the most tedious. After several attempts and many calculations, we found it best to fit 1,568 3in boxes into a 16ft8in x 8ft4in big box. This part seemed never ending and the locals 
looked at us like we were crazy. Here we were working so hard and so excited to have a bunch of lines drawn on the side of a building, if you could have only seen some of the awkward looks we were receiving. Finally we were all spread out and able to reflect on our own thoughts while constructing our very own portions of the earths surface.
(Amber) Its true that the grid work took the longest, and was quite tedious, Id go so far as to say slightly irritating in fact. But the drawing, oh the drawing. After spending so much time laying down the grid, day after day, putting hours and hours into work that seemed stubborn to reveal progress, finally beginning able to see bits and pieces of countries take their forms was surprisingly relieving. I could feel some of the substantial weight of the project begin to lift off my chest. With each line added, each 3” grid block completed and holding its own piece of the world I would feel a little lighter and smile a little bigger. With certain battles, especially one of such proportions, its true that visual progress will sooth the battle wounds and keep hope floating. Miche says this concept is very American =) I was relieved none the less. We started from the bottom of the wall, the three of us squatting low against the hot earth, fire ants challenging our ability to remain steady. By this time, considering several days had passed since wed begun, I realized that our audience, aside from the occasional curious random stray, was made up of the same fascinated school children who were seen watching us every day. They’d stare through the chain linked fencing that filled the window panes of the old school building where they still attended classes until the new one we were painting on was ready. Apparently we put on a spectacular show, because I noticed those same small, shy faces marveling from a fair distance during recess and sometimes even lingering after school let out. I love knowing that our work interested some of the locals, and especially the younger generations, those who stand the best chance of seeing brighter days. Through the utilization of tools such as the map, the world that, for now, lay in our hands, these very children who express such interest will be given the opportunity to put it to use in a positive way. Occasionally someone would question what it was we were doing. I wish I would have counted how many times we were asked what kind of map we were making. I have to say, the first time I was thrown off and relatively surprised. I am not sure why, because I had been told of the limited amount of knowledge and had already resigned to the fact that our perceptions of the world greatly differed. But none the less I was caught off guard a little. Eventually, I came to expect it and answered all questions as best I could in broken bits of spanish and lots of hand gestures. Before long, almost all the grid blocks had been filled appropriately and soon the painting would begin. Things were really coming along now, and as the world began to reveal itself, more and more locals stopped to check it out. I know we all felt so good every time a hard working farmer, covered in mud and worn through from the days work, stopped to look and give his praise. Every “muy bien” and “bonito” went straight to our hearts.
(Nick) Throughout the project thus far and despite all the work and progress we’ve seen, our world looked dirty, scuff marks here, eraser marks there. But as Michelle started to paste on the 
deep ocean blue of the pacific it began to make things brighter, gradually, slowly a little less dirty, and after staring at such a dull canvas for so many days, it was a rewarding sight. At this point our audience and onlookers couldn’t fight the temptation anymore. As soon as they saw color go up on the wall they were eager and more than ready to get their hands dirty. I was very excited about their interest and happy to have their help, after all, this map is for them, part of their community. At one point I was doing nothing but delegating due to the amount of help we had and the lack of paintbrushes. I could see the worry in Michelle and Ambers eyes and actions when relinquishing a paintbrush to a helper. It was a though they were passing on their own child for someone else’s care. The children did outstanding, looking at their work with proud smiles, after bringing color to their very own part of this world. Most of my painting consisted of the ocean that bordered the land. At times it would wear on my patience, working my way in and out of the scattered islands that lay north of Canada and Russia. (Amber)Queen Elizabeth lent her name to many a landmass. (Nick cont.) It was slow and trying and there were times where I would try to pass it off to Michelle or Amber, but they would quickly inform me that this particular battle was mine as they had their own.. But I feel the truth of it was that they knew who held the steadier hand. Therefore, I stuck it out, and when the last touch of blue was in place, I climbed down off my ladder and stood back to see that our world which was once so dull and bare reflected back at us with vibrant color.
We had one final step before the map could be considered a finished product. The only thing we had left to do was label the countries, oceans and continents. This part went quick with the help of most of the students. We wrote out little labels with tape on the backs for them to place on their corresponding locations. It was shear madness, but wonderful rewarding madness. The kids did so well and were so proud. Even the teachers came out to delegate, almost as though it were a previously planned part of their curriculum. In the end, the finished product was absolutely beautiful and surprisingly accurate. It was hard to believe that this masterpiece was created as the fruits of our labor. As happy as we were to start it, we were even happier to see it finished, and are proud to show people what hard work and commitment can do, especially when the results directly impact others in such a wonderful way.
A Tribute to Friends
During our time in Buena Esperanza ,I guess you could say we made a few friends. Unfortunately they are the friendships that will most likely fade, only time will tell, but at least we were able to share a short amount of time in each others company.
Here’s to the Cayuco man: Your craftsmanship was beautiful and it’s a privilege to pass it on as a gift to our loved ones. You play a mean harmonica and cook a savory stew, your hospitality will not be forgotten. May your son grow to be strong and wise.
Senor Pantelones: Your work was amazing, your stitching steady and true. We feel so fortunate to own custom Nogbe pants created by your hand. It was a joy to stroll the countryside of your village, making our way to your home to deliver necessary materials, as well as seeing the pride in your face and stature when presenting the finished product.
To our little amigo: You are but nine years old and carry a smile brighter and more contagious than most we’ve come across. We feel so fortunate to have bonded with you through friend and truly hope that one day you come to realize that you gave us so much more than we were able to give you. Your interest and participation during our stay made it all the batter. May your light shine on. Dame Cinco(Give me five)
To the teacher of the children: You should be so proud. The influence you have on your students is inspiring and your ability to learn is impressive. We will miss our half and half conversations.
Dear ExPats: You enhanced our stay greatly with enlightening and educational walks through your property as well as delicious meals in good company. Your sincerity and genuine good nature comforted our stay and warmed our hearts. We truly felt right at home. Its a weight off our minds to have you so close and so willing to help Michelle if she’s ever in need.
And last but not least, a tribute to Meti… Ohh Meti. You were a wonderful guide hostess and companion. It was an absolute honor to have been a part of your current life in B.E. and we are both swelling with pride for what you have done and what you will continue to do. You’ve surely adapted well to this new lifestyle, bringing a homey nature to a bare wooden structure. It was both amazing and inspiring for us to see how you longed to be back “home” in B.E after being away for only a short time, obviously you have developed a true connection to your village. This is probably one of the most difficult parts and you appear to have mastered it gratefully. Remain true to your beliefs as well as the goals you’ve set for yourself, no matter how big or small, and try not to let outside influences take the focus from your cause. To do your part is to remember this. Know that a difference is being made, even if it’s hard to see.
With Love and Pride, Nick and Amber
Helpful Tips for the Buena Esperanza Traveler
*Don’t hike across the village during a heavy rainstorm. Coastal communities are prone to flash flooding and rubber gum boots will sink pretty deep in the mud and rushing water.
*Golden Orb spiders, though harmless, may influence severe panic when webbing plasters to face while in mid stride.
*If your Spanish isn’t up to par, know and except that you will be laughed at daily by the locals.
*Don’t be alarmed by open breastfeeding and pantless children. It happens more frequently than you would imagine and there’s no sense in turning beet red over it.
*When giant moths hit you in the face, don’t panic and flail wildly. Remember, it’s only a moth, remain calm. It’s not worth causing a ridiculous scene for observing parties while butt naked.
*If you think you may have Leshmeniasis but aren’t sure, do not, under any circumstance, refer to girlfriends knowledge of crazy jungle diseases, which she knows nothing about, and soak the infected area in boiling hot water. Not only will this be un-necessarily painful, but chances are the infected area is going to spread rapidly.
*When traversing rough seas in a small boat remember not to panic. Try quoting Lt. Dan from Forrest gump by shouting “You’ll never take this boat” It may or may not help.
Good luck and Vaya Con Dios
Click on the links below to see some videos from Nick and Amber´s stay in Buena Esperanza
World map Video
Video 1
Video 2
Video 3
Video 4
More Pictures from September
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| Semptember 2010 |
