The One Through Nick's Eyes

Visiting Michelle was the most spur of the moment decision I have ever made. I purchased the ticket four days before the plane left from LAX. I had a small window of time between a job offer and start date. So I took the one and only opportunity I would have to visit Michelle before I was corrupted by the corporate lifestyle. Before flying into Bocas I spent time in Panama City doing all the “touristy stuff” with Panamanian friends I had met in Europe.


Life in the Real B.E.
Being in Panama felt like a dream. And being in Buena Esperanza felt like a sweaty dream within a dream. The scenery in Michelle’s region is like something straight out of a National Geographic magazine. Everything in the Buena Esperanza seems far removed from what we know as civilization.
We took a boat ride from Bocas to B.E. with “the gringos.” It was a very scenic ride. These gringos are expatriates living the retired life in Bocas. Can’t blame them for moving down as you can live comfortably on less than $20/day and be in paradise while you’re at it.

Walking from the gringo’s house to B.E. is a short hike through the jungle. Short, but one of the most difficult hikes I have ever made. Mud, loose boots, 70lbs of supplies, wet inclines/declines, bush, trees. The scenery reminded me of the book Heart of Darkness. At one point I surely thought I was going to fall into a mud puddle that we had to cross by balancing on a log skinnier than the width of my foot. A task like this would usually be no problem except the log was slick, and the heavy pack throws you off balance. I thanked god I didn’t fall in. It was deep. Couple this with the fact that the humidity makes you sweat from pours you didn’t know you have. The air there is so hot, thick, and humid that you think you have asthma. Unending sweat numbs your senses and your cognition.

After the hike we made it to her house/hut/-stilted barn is what I call it. Feeling dehydrated and sick I quickly laid down on the wood boarded ground as I constantly had to remind myself to drink water. I sat around most of Friday afternoon like a zombie. In B.E. the heat isn’t easily escapable. No air conditioner or fans to retreat to. The shade doesn’t allow you to escape from the humidity. The best comparison I could give would be the feeling you get when you’re in a steam room.

At the house was Osias (Michelle’s unofficial best friend in B.E. who is around age 10) and the anorexic cat who he was supposed to be watching but might have forgot to feed. (yes the cat with no name.) I had a hard time recovering until a bag of cool orange soda (yes a bag) brought me back to homeostasis. As I lay down on the wood floor trying to regain my composure from the hike, kids started accumulating at the doorstep. The stone faced adolescents stared at the new guy in town. Feeling replenished I did my best to entertain these children who didn’t seem to smile much. (Later on learning that the Ngobe don’t show much emotion made me feel a little better). I tried to teach them English words in the most animated way I could. I was able to get a few smiles out of the kids which was encouraging. They were all very cute.

The Fun Stuff:
Bocas Island

The first day I got in Miche and I took a boat ride to Red Frog Beach. This beautiful beach was great for swimming and lounging (and surfing on the right days). We later met her friend Jessica who has recently retired from the PC and two backpackers from Chicago who were cousins. Volleyball, swimming, and cold Panama lager. “I had my toes in the water, ass in the sand, not a worry in the world and a cold beer in my hand. Life was good that day.”
We went out and enjoyed a night in Bocas with Jessica and the Chicagans. We went to a couple bars on the water. As the night progressed Michelle and I found ourselves doing back flips off the plank of the bars dock into the water. For some reason my shirt made it’s way onto the roof of the bar where I had to rescue it and jump off. Michelle didn’t have this problem as she swam in her summer dress. I will never forget the sign that said “Cut at own risk” with a picture of a shark and coral…maybe you just had to be there. Actually, I did end up cutting my foot on coral :( Overall it was a really fun night.

Buena Esperanza
-We Kayaked Dolphin Bay and a small river running into it. No dolphins, but we saw more jelly fish than I have ever seen in my life! Exploring the mangroves, bay, and river in that setting was definitely unforgettable. The area teams with so many plants, trees, insects, animals, and colors that I had never seen before. That day, Dave and Linda prepared an awesome lunch for us, overlooking Dolphin Bay. Then we got a private tour of their beautiful Cacao farm and garden. We saw how they processed the Cacao aka coco aka chocolate. Yum
Played baseball with kids from the village. (Ball made out of yarn I believe, and well the bat was a stick. Still lots of fun)
-I Helped miche teach her English class. I introduced myself and played hangman in English. Teaching is fun when you know your students are learning.

-Isaac, Roberto, Osias, and Tonio escorted us on a cayuco ride to Zapatilla Islands. It was great getting to travel by cayuco just like the locals. This island was the most pristine and beautiful tropical island that I could ever try to imagine. Decked out with palm trees, white sand, clear water, colorful fish, and a picturesque backdrop. (Check out the pictures above). We Snorkeled, swam, lounged, and drank a coconut. Mucho divertido.

Appreciation
Over the three days I spent with Meti we did a lot of fun stuff together, and I learned a lot. Living without all the luxuries can be difficult and yet peaceful at the same time. Michelle being a great host and friend truly made it an unforgettable experience. Through the fun times and the difficult times of staying in BE I realized a few things....

Geckos on the wall, Scorpions in your shoes, ants on your table, and bugs getting into your food are just part of life that you learn to accept. Lots of the world lives like this. These things for the most part don’t kill people, but would be a huge intolerance to the average American. It makes you realize not only how important modern amenities are to our lifestyle, but really to how they have shaped our realities and perceptions of the worlds living standards.

I got to witness what Michelle is doing and living; this isn’t the weeklong mission trip with all your church buddies to help build houses in Mexico... She is giving over 2 years of her life to this cause!!! I learned that it’s a 24 hr job of getting to know these people personally and gaining their trust, being an ambassador, being an educator and answering questions about anything, teaching english, writing p.c. reports, entertaining, and figuring out where they want help/where she can help. What amazes me most is that it’s just Michelle and the villagers for the most part. Not much of anyone else. Observing her interaction with them and her Spanish was very impressive might I add.

I only got to know a few of locals due to time/cultural/language restraints. But being there and having Miche explain to me how the Ngobe live and interact is very different than what we are used to. I can see why the job could get frustrating and why it can be rewarding.

No running water, no electricity, no plumbing, no window panes, and no insulation in these conditions is hard-hitting. This was a few humbling days for me, then its back home. For Michelle it’s not. She is there for another 17 months, just her. She really is the most amazing person I have ever had the chance to know. Her strength, courage, and caring nature always impress me. While I am writing this and enjoying the blessings we all take for granted, Michelle is subjugating herself to conditions that I felt at times were unbearable. She’s making huge life sacrifices to help out the people in Buena Esperanza. As much as I can try to communicate with you the experience, you will never really know until you see for yourself. I urge you to visit Miche. Take a week out of your life. It will change you, and will mean a lot to Michelle. Plus it’s one of the most beautiful places you will ever visit.

More Pictures:

http://picasaweb.google.com/maguilar317/NicksVisit?feat=directlink